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1 Padding Threads
Same as wadding threads. -
2 Stuffer Threads
A term used in some districts for the thick threads used as padding in such fabrics as Bedford cords and which lie between the face and back of the cloth, inter-weaving with no threads. These yarns are usually of cheaper material than the face yarns. -
3 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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4 Backed Cloths
A single texture cloth with extra threads of either warp or weft, generally inferior in quality to the face yarns, and woven so as to show only on the back. Used to add weight to the fabric. This allows a cloth to have a fine face weave, and yet be any desired weight. This principal is mostly used in the worsted trade, especially for trouserings, where a double fine worsted warp and weft are used for the face cloth, and a coarse single yam for padding. Also used for giving a cloth with face and back of different designs (see Weft, and Warp-backed Cloths)
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